Singapore, Singapore
As most residents in Singapore will know Geylang is Singapore’s very own ‘red light’ district (we are located 3km away from actual site, so not to worry if you bring your family along). On an island largely showcasing bright new buildings and manicured gardens Geylang has happily retained its yesteryear charm and a slight air of grunge. A very good friend of mine who lives in the area for more than 20 years that on visits over there at night it’s like you’re in a different country. There’s a whiff of seediness in the air, alongside the prominent smell of durian that is ever-present during the season (roughly May to August depending on the weather), and of course the smells of some of Singapore’s most famous food dishes.
Geylang is primarily low rise and the charm of old shophouses has been largely retained. Although the city creeps ever closer, with new condos being built, the area most definitely has a local feel. As with any grungy area the inevitable process of gentrification has already well and truly begun. I personally see the upside of this though, in addition to traditional local foods you’ll now find places to go for artisan coffee and craft beers which brings in new people that add to the already eclectic mix.
Geylang is centered around the major arteries of Sims Road, Geylang Road and Guillemard Road with "Lorongs" (a taxi driver tells me that Lorong mean alley) running in between. Odd numbered Lorongs run between Geylang Road and Sims Avenue and even numbers Lorongs run between Geylang Road and Guillemard Road.
This is a brief guide to the area, primarily in terms of eating and drinking venues, but I’ve thrown a few other things into the mix as well. I’d love to hear of any local secrets you’ve found in Geylang, although I spend a bit of time up there :)
Good Food Recommendation Around the area
Brawn & Brains (8 mins walk away)
The search for coffee in Geylang can be difficult if you’re after something other than a cup of local coffee. Brawn & Brains recently opened on Guillemard Road and has done an impressive job providing excellent quality coffee alongside some very decent quick bites. On my visit I tried a Beef Pastrami Sandwich. I was torn between that and the Chicken and Mushroom Wrap but was advised this was a heartier choice and because I was starving that made my decision easy.It was more like a panini in very delicious ciabatta that was lightly toasted but not enough to make the lettuce inside go soggy. The crispy bread and good amount of pastrami went very well with a cooked onion and a sort of sauerkraut mix. I tried two coffees, one of the Peruvian and the other a Columbian/Sumatran blend. Both were excellent and the Peruvian in particular was extremely smooth and chocolatey. Definitely the best coffee I’ve had in that area. Coffees are $3.50 and sandwiches around $7.50. It’s a little tricky to find, look for the bright blue ‘Kumon’ sign outside.
Address: 100 Guillemard Road, #01-07, Singapore, Ph(PHONE NUMBER HIDDEN)
Penang Seafood Restaurant (15 mins walk away, transport reccomended)
The best seafood place for locals, highly recommended for all seafood lovers, i will personally recommend their Penang Assam Laksa, Assam Fish head, Cereal Prawn and Penang Fried Kway Teow and get ready to be blown away. Prices starts from 12sgd above, reasonably priced and less costly compare to most restaurant thus dont expect a high class ambience but service is great, the boss can speak good English which makes it a place for tourist. They also serve beer, which makes this place Non-Halal. They close at 12mn.
76 Lor 25A Geylang (next to Aljunied MRT), Singapore 388258
The Tuckshop ( 10 mins walk away)
The Tuckshop was one of the first hipster type of places to open its doors in Geylang. The area is famous for its food but it’s primarily hawker food and if you’re after something a little more western, perhaps with a half decent bar attached, then this is harder to find. When The Tuckshop started business back in 2013 it was welcomed largely with open arms. The menu was primarily a sharing menu, with western slants on Asian staples. I won’t write too much about that menu because now all has changed. We visited recently after a friend who lives locally had remarked that she wouldn’t venture back because of the menu change so I needed to find out for myself.The menu has definitely veered more to single plates, pastas and rice dishes that are not made for sharing. The fusion of east and west is still present, with dishes like Chinese sausage paired with mushrooms and orzo pasta or juicy tiger prawns served with a creamy linguine sauce. The best we sampled were the sautéed clams served with toasted baguette. The garlicky sauce had a little kick to it making it incredibly moreish.But the menu now seems to be a hotch potch of choices, with not enough items available to share which forces you to choose a main course each. Maybe that was the aim to ensure everyone orders enough food but it seems to go against the grain. And it’s not exactly a bargain either, we paid $40 each for a main course and one drink each, with two sides to share between four. Not forgetting getting a pine of beer in the evening is one popular place among the expats living nearby.
Address: 403 Guillemard Road, Singapore, (PHONE NUMBER HIDDEN) Dim Sum (Open 24hrs) (30 mins walk away) (transport recommended)
This Hong Kong style dim sum is open 24 hours (yes 24 hours!) and they offer a good range of dim sum with reasonable prices. The restaurant is nearly always busy but usually you won’t need to wait long for one of the tables. There’s not much finesse here, you’ll find plastic tables and chairs and brisk service. One of the best concepts that 126 offer is mantou rolls served with chilli crab sauce. These are basically the two best things about chilli crab in my opinion so for a meagre $6 you can get a fix of Singapore’s favourite dishes. The vegetable Xiao Long Bao didn’t reach the heady heights of a Din Tai Fung Xiao Long Bao but the steamed prawn dumplings (Har Gao) were springy and tender. Chee Cheong Sum comes highly recommended but I couldn’t fit it in on my visit. Service is brisk but efficient and prices are very reasonable.
Address: 126 Sims Avenue, Singapore
La Barca (40 mins walk away, transport recommended)
La Barca is a good authentic Italian restaurant that specialises in Tuscan cuisine. The Goodman Arts Centre location provides ample space with an extensive outdoor area as well as a good sized restaurant. It’s just a little quiet there in the evening which makes it feel like the restaurant patrons are the only people for miles.The jovial chef Michele Sorrentino has created a menu that does what the Italian’s do best, provides simple ingredients cooked well. My only visit here was for a wine dinner (of which they host many) and the combination of great food and wine for around $120++ was impressive. The Fiorentina steak they served was sublime and my meat eating Italian friends who were visiting were very impressed. Definitely worth a visit.
Address: 90 Goodman Road, Singapore, 439053
